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    » Adobe Photoshop Pen Tool Tutorial
    Published 03/14/2007 | Other |
    Adobe Photoshop Pen Tool Tutorial Adobe Photoshop Pen Tool Tutorial
    Learn how to work with Photoshop Pen Tool.
    » The Pen-Tool Explanation
    Published 10/9/2006 | Other |

    The Pen-Tool

    I revamped the old Pen-Tool tutorial, because it was missing some explanation. Also I found it may be a bit hard for some people. Right now I have explained EVERYTHING about the different pen-tools and did this at a level, even people who are new to photoshop can understand!

    Learn how to use the best tool in photoshop... The Pen-Tool!

    In this tutorial I will teach you how to use maybe the best tool there is in Photoshop. But maybe also the hardest to learn. I use this tool every time I use photoshop. For me the tool has no more secrets. And I want to achieve the same thing for you, because this is a GREAT tool to create vectors or to seperate a picture from the background!

       

    • Step 1 When you select the standard Pen-Tool, you will have the oportunity to do many things.
      Just click around and notice it works the same as the Polygonal Lass-Tool, only now you can scroll while selecting.
      Notice the squares. These are Anchor-Points. More about those later!!!

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 2 If you click first somewhere in the screen, and then click, BUT you hold the mousebutton and drag the mouse across the screen. Notice that you can create a curve:

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 3 You can't create a straight line after a curve, therefore you must do something else first;
      Hold ALT and drag the anchorpoint somewhere else;

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 4 Then click somewhere else and notice that you can create a new curve from a straight line!

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 5 The Freeform Pen-Tool can be used for many drawing-purposes. It works a bit the same as the pencil in Flash, because it tightens the lines you draw.
      Not much cools can be done with this unless you're very skilled with a mouse or have a drawingtablet.

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 6 Select the +Add anchor-point-Tool and click anywhere on a line to create a new anchor-point to make a different curve or edit the current curve:

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 7 The +Remove anchor-point-Tool works the exact the opposite; click on an anchor-point to remove it and make the line continue along the other anchor-points!

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    • Step 8 The COnvert Point-Tool is used to modify existing anchor-points.
      Just select the tool and click on an anchor-point. Then drag it around to change the curve:

      Learning the Pen-Tool

    Author        :  MICK MOOLHUIJSEN 
    HomePage : 
    http://www.mickm.com 

    » CellShading Effect
    Published 10/5/2006 | Other |

    Cell-Shading

    The is the first tutorial on MickM.com on how to cell-shade your photo's just like in games like Zelda:Windwaker or XIII. It may take some time and tries, but the result is worth dying for...

    Make Vector-cellshading your everyday business with this tutorial!

    • Step 1 Open up a picture you want to cell-shade/vectorise;

      Cellshading

    • Step 2 First select all the parts that have the similar color;

      Note:I USED THE COLOR BLACK FIRST.

      Cellshading

    • Step 3 You must use the Polygonal Lasso-Tool for this all;

      Note:I WOULD HIGHLY SUGGEST TO USE THIS TOOL, BECAUSE IT GIVES A MUCH BETTER RESULT.
      I USE THE PEN-TOOL A LOT, BUT IN THIS CELLSHADING-CASE, IT'S BETTER TO GET POLYGONAL SHAPES THEN TO GET CURVED SHAPES!

      Cellshading

    • Step 4 When you select one color, make a new layer and just fill it with that color;

      Note:IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHICH COLOR-CODE IS THE COLOR YOU WANT, JUST GET OUT THE EYEDROPPER AND CLICK IT ON THE COLOR YOU WANT TO CELLSHADE.

      Cellshading

    • Step 5 When you're done, you should have A LOT of layers with all different colors;

      Cellshading

    • Step 6 It is a lot of work, but it pays off...
      REMEMBER: You don't need to use EVERY COLOR, just the basic, the shadow and the shining-part!!!
      Check out below how the Polygonal Lasso-Tool works;

      Cellshading

    Author        :  MICK MOOLHUIJSEN 
    HomePage : 
    http://www.mickm.com 

    » Adobe Photoshop CS2: Digital Camera Raw File Support
    Published 09/13/2006 | Other |

    Adobe Photoshop CS2: Digital Camera Raw File Support

    The camera raw functionality in Adobe© Photoshop© software provides fast and easy access within Photoshop to the "raw" image formats produced by many leading professional and midrange digital cameras. By working with these "digital negatives," you can achieve the results you want with greater artistic control and flexibility while still maintaining the original "raw" files.

    The Photoshop Camera Raw plug-in became the latest must-have tool for professional photographers when it was released in February 2003. This powerful plug-in has been updated to support more cameras and include more features, and is available as part of Adobe Photoshop CS2. With Photoshop CS2 you get not only the latest camera raw plug-in, but also the full range of exciting new features that are part of this release.

    The Photoshop Camera Raw plug-in (2.3 or higher) now also supports raw files in the DNG format. Find out more about the benefits of the Digital Negative, a publicly documented raw file format recently announced by Adobe.

    To learn more about Camera Raw, read these primers:

    Project: Lightroom

    Download new beta software for professional photographers

    Download new beta software for professional photographers

    Project: Lightroom™ is Adobe's effort to engage the professional photography community in a new way, giving you the opportunity to kick the tires and shape the feature set of a new tool being created just for you.

    Supported Cameras

    Camera Raw 3.3

    Newly supported cameras for Camera Raw 3.3 - January 2006

    Support for the following cameras has been added from Camera Raw 3.2 to 3.3.

    Canon
    • EOS 5D
    • EOS 1D Mark II N
    • EOS 20Da
    Fujifilm
    • FinePix E900
    • FinePix S5200/5600
    • FinePix S9000/9500
    Kodak
    • EasyShare P850
    • EasyShare P880
    Mamiya
    • ZD
    Nikon
    • D200
    Olympus
    • E-500
    • SP-310
    • SP-350
    • SP-500UZ
    Pentax
    • * ist DL
    • * ist DS2
    Sony
    • DSC-R1

    Supported cameras for Camera Raw 3.2

    Support for the following cameras is included in Photoshop CS2. Camera Raw 3.1 is not compatible with Photoshop CS.

    Canon
    • EOS-1D
    • EOS-1Ds
    • EOS-1D Mark II
    • EOS-1Ds Mark II
    • EOS 10D
    • EOS 20D
    • EOS D30
    • EOS D60
    • EOS 300D (Digital Rebel/Kiss Digital)
    • EOS Rebel XT (EOS 350D/EOS Kiss Digital N)
    • PowerShot 600
    • PowerShot A5
    • PowerShot A50
    • PowerShot Pro 1
    • PowerShot S30
    • PowerShot S40
    • PowerShot S45
    • PowerShot S50
    • PowerShot S60
    • PowerShot S70
    • PowerShot G1
    • PowerShot G2
    • PowerShot G3
    • PowerShot G5
    • PowerShot G6
    • PowerShot Pro70
    • PowerShot Pro90 IS
    Contax
    • N Digital
    Epson
    • R-D1
    Fujifilm
    • FinePix F700
    • FinePix S5000 Z
    • FinePix S7000 Z
    • FinePix S2 Pro
    • FinePix S3 Pro
    • FinePix S20 Pro
    Kodak
    • DCS 14n
    • DCS Pro 14nx
    • DCS720x
    • DCS760
    • DCS Pro SLR/n
    Konica Minolta
    • Alpha Sweet Digital (Japan)
    • Alpha-5 Digital (China)
    • DiMAGE A1
    • DiMAGE A2
    • DiMAGE A200
    • DiMAGE 5
    • DiMAGE 7
    • DiMAGE 7i
    • DiMAGE 7Hi
    • Maxxum Dynax 5D (Europe)
    • Maxxum 5D (USA)
    • Maxxum 7D/Dynax 7D
    Leaf
    • Aptus 22
    • Valeo 6
    • Valeo 11
    • Valeo 17
    • Valeo 22
    Leica
    • D-Lux 2
    • Digilux 2
    Nikon *
    • D1
    • D1H
    • D1X
    • D100
    • D2H
    • D2Hs
    • D2X
    • D50
    • D70
    • D70s
    • Coolpix 5000
    • Coolpix 5400
    • Coolpix 5700
    • Coolpix 8400
    • Coolpix 8700
    • Coolpix 8800
    Olympus
    • E-10
    • E-1
    • E-20
    • EVOLT E-300
    • C-5050 Zoom
    • C-5060 Zoom
    • C-7070 Wide Zoom
    • C-8080 Wide Zoom
    Panasonic
    • DMC-FZ30
    • DMC-LC1
    • DMC-LX1
    Pentax
    • * ist D
    • * ist DS
    Sigma
    • SD9
    • SD10
    Sony
    • DSC-F828
    • DSC-V3

    DNG Native Cameras

    The following cameras can natively capture DNG-format raw files, and therefore are compatible with Adobe Camera Raw versions 2.4 and greater.

    Hasselblad
    • H2D
    Lieca
    • Digital-Modul-R
    Ricoh
    • GR Digital
    Samsung
    • Pro 815

    * The file encryption found in some Nikon raw formats has caused some users to question the level of cooperation between Nikon and Adobe in providing solutions for raw processing.

    » Create a flyer for Toyota Challenge
    Published 07/30/2006 | Other |
    1. Open your favorite image:

    Open Image in Adobe Photoshop CS

    2. Ctrl+J to duplicate the layer, set Mode Overlay for duplicated layer:

    Mode Overlay in Adobe Photoshop CS

    3. Go to Filter>Artistic>Cutout:

    Cutout in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Results:

    Cutout in Adobe Photoshop CS

    4. Add title text for flyer, I use font Bernard MT Condensed:

    Type in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Blending Options and add Stroke:

    Stroke in Adobe Photoshop CS

    add other important text for this flyer - location and event schedule:

    Type in Adobe Photoshop CS

    5. Now add nice stars on background, Select the brush tool (B), then click in the brushes window. If you can’t see the panel go window > Options to show it:

    Brush tool in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Now, create another layer, hold down the left button of your mouse and tracing 2-3 lines made of stars. Go to Blending Mode>Outer Glow:

    Outer Glow in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Now flyer it's ready:

    Create a flyer for Toyota Challenge 2006 in Adobe Photoshop CS

    » Create a Nice Credit Card in Photoshop CS
    Published 07/16/2006 | Other |
    Download PSD source (Tutorial ID 1498)!

    1. Ctrl+N and create a New Document 500x500px.

    2. Draw 2 shapes using Rounded Rectangle Tool in different Layers:

    Create Rounded Rectangle Tool in Adobe Photoshop CS

    3. Apply for first Layer:

    Bevel and Emboss in Adobe Photoshop CS



    Gradient Overlay in Adobe Photoshop CS

    4. Repeat step 3 for Layer 2. Results:

    Gradient Overlay in Adobe Photoshop CS

    5. Now find a nice composition, cut and put it on top of the creadit card shape, I found a nice globe:

    Put the globe in Adobe Photoshop CS

    6. We need to add number of a credit card, add 4 groups with 4 numbers, I use font Square721 BT with the following blending options:

    Drop Shadow in Adobe Photoshop CS



    Outer Glow in Adobe Photoshop CS



    Bevel and Emboss in Adobe Photoshop CS



    Gradient Overlay in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Results:

    Results in Adobe Photoshop CS

    7. Now need to place in top of the credit card logo from MasterCard, Visa and your favourite Bank. From here you can download the logo for MasterCard, Visa and any Bank. My Results:

    Results:

    Results in Adobe Photoshop CS

    8. Duplicate the layer with credit card number and apply Edit->Transform->Flip Horizontal, put this layer on bottom card:

    Flip Horizontal in Adobe Photoshop CS

    9. In this step add on bottom card the Magnetic Strip and Signature Line. Use Rectangle Tool and draw 2 rectangle with black and white color:

    Rectangle Tool in Adobe Photoshop CS

    10. Finally add a signature, I use font Linotype Zapfino Two:

    Text Tool in Adobe Photoshop CS

    Good luck, and be sure to check out our other Photoshop Tutorials!

    Download PSD source (Tutorial ID 1498)!
    » Photoshop Graffiti Tutorial
    Published 06/17/2006 | Other |

    Open the photo with the textured surface.


    Go to Image -> Duplicate

    A new window will come up asking you to give the duplicate image a name (wall copy)

    Now save the duplicate image as wall copy.psd. Close the duplicate image.

    Back at our original Image and paste in new layer photo of your favorite singer. 

    Go to Filter->Distort->Displace

    You can experiment with the settings to find the ones that better suit you needs.

    A window will come up asking you to select a displacement map. Find and select the duplicate image that you created at the start of the tutorial (“wall copy.psd”) and press open.

    Here is the result of the displacement filter.

    Change the layer blending mode. I used “Hard Light”. When using different colors of the background layer is different than the one I used for this tutorial, other blending modes may work as well:



    Ok now you are going to have to experiment here.
    With a lighter image you are gonna wanna go to Filter>Brush Strokes>Ink Outlines:



    With a darker image you are gonna wanna go to Filter>Distort>Diffuse Glow:



    My final results:



    Now add text graffiting I suggest downloading this font.

    Add your text with color #FFE600.

    Rasterize and appply the same effect with Filter->Distort->Displace.

    Set the layer blending mode to “Overlay”.

    Go to Blending Options>Stroke

    Size: 2px
    Position: Outside
    Blend Mode: Normal
    Opacity: 100%
    Fill Type: Color 
    #8B2828

    My results:
     

    Related Articles:

  • Photoshop Graffiti Tutorial
  • Art Creator Graffiti on the Wall
  • Graffiti Text
  • Graffiti On a Wall



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    » Photoshop Action and Batch to Resize Images
    Published 06/11/2006 | Other |
    In this tutorial, we’ll learn how to create a custom action and use Photoshop’s batch command to process a group of images to a certain size. This is a fairly simple tutorial, but does require some Photoshop knowledge.

    For this tutorial, we are going to create a group of thumbnail images for a website gallery. So we are going to convert all our images to small jpg’s. Here we go….

    First off, we need to do a little prep work. And believe me, this prep work can save you a lot of problems in the long run.

    We need to decide how big our thumbnails are going to be. Also, we need to decide whether or not to resize them by height, or by width. I’ll explain at the end of the tutorial. Since we are making thumbnails, we are going to make them all 150 pixels wide.

    Before we go into Photoshop, we are going to create two different folders. For this tutorial, we’ll create the folders “original” and “thumbnails”. It doesn’t matter where they go, as long as you can remember where they are.

    Next, copy all the images you want to resize to the “original” folder. Notice that I said COPY. It’s always better to work on copies of your images, rather than the originals. That way if something happens, you always have a backup copy of your original images.

    When you copy your images, I recommend you copy them all to the root directory in the “original” folder, don’t use any subfolders. This you’ll ensure that you have no duplicate images, or images with the same filename.

    Let’s get into Photoshop.

    First we need to open an image. Any image will due for now. We are only going to use it to create our Actions.

    Now, let’s create a new action set. To do this, we click on the folder icon in the Actions panel. Let’s name this set “Custom”. I like to keep my custom actions in their own set, so I can find them easier later on.



    Next we need to create a new action. Click the “create new action” icon in the Actions panel. This is signified by the icon that looks like a piece of paper with a curled edge.



    Let’s name this Action “Resize 150 W” because we are going to resize the image to 150 pixels wide. *Note: As soon as you create a new Action, your action starts recording, so go directly to the next step without doing anything else.

    To resize the image: Go to IMAGE --> RESIZE IMAGE. This will open the “Image Size” dialog box. Now let’s change the width of our image to 150 pixels wide. Then click “OK”.



    Now immediately after you click “OK”. Go to FILE --> SAVE FOR WEB. Set your jpg parameters how you normally would and click save. Make sure you save this file in the “thumbnails” folder that we created. You can name the file anything you want.

    Next we need to stop recording our Action. Click the “Stop recording” icon in the Actions panel. This is the little square button. Our new Action is complete, and ready to use. Now we are ready to process our images.



    Go to your “Thumbnails” folder and delete the image you saved there when you created your action. This is just so it doesn’t get mixed in with the images you’re processing.

    In Photoshop, go to FILE --> AUTOMATE --> BATCH.

    In the “Batch” Dialog box, we need to set our options. The batch options are fairly straight forward, so I’ll only touch on the ones I feel need some explanation.

    The “Play” section. Change your set to “Custom”. And your Action to “Resize 150 W” this sets the Action you created earlier.

    Set the “Source” option to “Folder”. Then click the “Choose” button and select the folder you created called “Original”.

    The “Source” Section. Since we did not create an “Open” Command in our Action, we need to make sure the “Override Action “Open” Commands” is NOT checked. The “Include Subfolders” option doesn’t matter. The “Suppress file Open Options Dialog” should be checked. And the “Suppress Color Profile Warnings” should be checked.

    The “Destination” Section. The “Destination” should be set to “Folder”. Click on the “Choose” button and select the folder you created called “thumbnails”. Make sure the “Override Action “Save As” command” is checked. In the “File Naming” Section. Set the first box to “Document Name” and the second box to “Extension”. This is an option you can play around with, but make sure that the last part of the naming is set to “Extension”

    Now, to process your images, just click “Ok”



    And that’s it.

    Before you actually put this Tutorial to use Please check over the notes I’ve put below.

    NOTES: IMPORTANT NOTE ON PERFORMANCE

    The amount of files you can batch process at one time is affected in several different ways:

    1. The size of the files being processed.

    2. The Processor Speed of your computer.

    3. The amount of RAM available to Photoshop.

    Don’t expect to jump right in a batch process 100 different images at once. Start out slow. Try, let’s say, 10 files the first time and see how your computer responds. If everything goes ok, then start increasing the amount from there.

    Trying to batch too many files at once can cause your computer to slow down, freeze up, or crash altogether. You have been warned.

    When you Batch a group of images this way, you do not have to worry about what type of images they are. If Photoshop can open them, they will be processed.

    Here’s the reason why we needed to decide how to resize our images. We want all our images to be consistently the same size and maintain their aspect ratio, so they look like the original, only smaller. However, we can only do this in one direction. When you execute the image size command in an Action. The action will only change the dimension that you have changed in the “Image Size” dialog box.
    » Working in the Photoshop CS Camera Raw Dialog Box
    Published 06/10/2006 | Other |

    All professional and many mid-range digital cameras support the capability to capture images in the RAW file format. Each manufacturer takes a different approach to doing so, but for the most part, the editing of these files can be done fairly painlessly in Photoshop CS(or Photoshop 7 if you have the Camera Raw plug in). Today we'll take a look at the Photoshop CS Camera Raw Dialog Box and what tweaks you can make to your images using the two modes of Photoshop CS Camera Raw; Basic and Advanced. The Camera Raw dialog box gives you the capability to quickly edit images that are in the RAW file format. When you do edit them in this format, you retain all the original image data that was captured by your camera's image sensor or CCD. Unlike with JPEG, no filters or any adjustments are made by the camera when captured in this format.

    JPEG Issues
    As digital camera became more powerful and more professionals turned to the format for capturing images, there had been one issue with image quality, and that is the use of JPEG as the standard file format for capturing and transferring images to the digital camera's memory card. JPEG is a format that is understood by all browsers, is easy to read by all image editing applications, is relatively compact in size and to the naked eye, can look high quality. However, because JPEG is a compressed format (lossy), and such tweaks as white balance, gamma, sharpening, and saturation are processed in the camera, image quality is on a constant path to degradation, a feature to the file format that is not acceptable by professionals. In the film world, professionals are accustomed to working with a negative, scanning it into a computer at the highest resolutions possible and then manipulating it. The RAW file format is a lossless format, meaning no image data is thrown out and is as close to a digital negative that you are going to get. The format retains all the image data captured by the digital camera's imaging sensor or CCD, which is the total opposite of the JPEG format.

    With Photoshop CS, RAW format support is built in. To open a RAW format image inPhotoshop CS, you simply launch the file browser, click on a RAW image, and the Camera RAW dialog box opens, which enables you to tweak various aspects of the RAW image file.

    In Basic Mode, the hand tool, zoom tool and white balance tool are located in the upper left corner of the window. This window gives you access to a variety of sliders and drop down menus. Starting from the  bottom left, you can change the size of the image in the window, as well as turn the preview on or off.

    Color space support includes the capability to change from Adobe RGB 1998 to ColorMatch RGB, ProPhoto RGB, and sRGB IEC61966-1. Bit depth can be changed from 8-bits per channel to 16-bits per channel.

    The size of the image can also be altered here. Your choices include 1536x1024, 2048x1365, 3072x2048, 4096x2731, 5120x3413, and 6144x4096. Image resolution can also be manipulated here as well, as is the capability to rotate the image clockwise and counter-clockwise.

    The bottom right of the window features two tabs; Adjust and Detail. See image above. Under the Adjust tab, you can change the White balance. Your choices for White Balance adjustment include As Shot, Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Flash and Custom. Under White balance is Temperature and Tint. 

     Inputting a lower numerical value in the Temperature setting (or moving the slider to the left) will add more blue to your image, inputting a larger numerical value (or moving the slider to the right) will add more yellow to the image. Sliding the Tint toggle to the left (or inputting a negative numerical value) will emphasize the green color in the image, while sliding the toggle to the right will emphasize the image's red colors. Below Temperature and Tint you'll find Exposure, Shadow, Brightness, Contrast and Saturation.

    You can tweak an image's exposure with the Exposure tool. Send the slider all the way to the left and you'll experience a darker image. Boost the slider all the way to the right and you'll see a more overexposed image.

    Shadows will alter the darker areas of an image. Set the slider to 0 and you'll see a minimum manipulation of the darker areas of the image. Send the slider all the way to the right and the darker areas of the image will become more pronounced. 

    The Brightness slider will add more or less brightness to an image. Contrast slider will enable you to add or subtract contrast in an image, and Saturation can change the saturation in your image. Take the slider and move it all the way to the right, and the image is more saturated, so much so that the water and the clouds in the sky look very similar in color thanks to the reflection of the orange from the sun.

    Contrast

    To me it seems similar to a photograph printed on glossy paper compared to the same photograph printed on matte paper. The next tab under Basic is the Detail tab, which gives you access to Sharpness, Luminance Smoothing, and Color Noise reduction sliders.

    Calibrate tab

    Clicking on the Advanced radio button adds the advanced Lens and Calibrate tabs. The Lens adjustment sliders are accessed when certain specific issues arise that are associated with the lens that was used to capture the photograph. The sliders include Chromatic Aberration R/C (red, cyan) and Chromatic Aberration B/Y (blue, yellow), Vignetting amount and Vignetting Midpoint. Chromatic Aberration is a common occurrence in photographs taken with digital cameras. Purple banding where there is no purple color is often the result of this. The Chromatic Aberration sliders are used in this case to help alleviate this issue.

    Vignetting, which is a darkening of the corners of an image, often occurs with the use conversion lens and close up lens. You can use the vignetting sliders to add light to the edge of an image to help compensate. First select the vignetting amount and then the vignetting midpoint.

    The Calibrate Tab includes a set of sliders for adjusting Shadow tint, Red Hue, Red Saturation, Green Hue, Green Saturation, Blue Hue, and Blue Saturation.  In the image below, the original image is a bit washed out with little saturation, almost a black and white looking image. The image below that includes adjustments made under the calibrate tab.

    Once you make your adjustments within Photoshop CS's  Camera Raw dialog box, you can click ok and the image will open up, as a RAW file, in Photoshop. When you click ok from within the Camera Raw dialog box, all the changes will take place to the RAW image file. You can make further refinements if you wish using Photoshop CS's other tools and then save it out in another file format. If you have multiple shots taken under the same lighting conditions, and you want to apply the changes you made in one image to all the images, you can select Previous Conversion, located under the Settings box, and Photoshop CS will apply those changes to the other images.

    So there it is. The Photoshop Camera Raw dialog box has many of the familiar tools in Photoshop that enable you to edit images in the RAW format, so you can tweak most all aspects of the image's attributes without compromising the quality of the image.

    » Abstract Vectoring
    Published 06/9/2006 | Other |

    1. Making a new document 300x300,  apply Filter>Render>Clouds with Foreground #FFFFFF and Background #FE9E06
    Abstract Vectoring - Filter Clouds

    2. Make a new layer (this layer is your second layer), now take some brushes and select the color black and make some sample brush marks along the edge

    Abstract Vectoring - Brushes

    3. Then you must get some colorm apply Layer>New Adjustment>Gradient Map select color you like and click OK

    Abstract Vectoring - Gradient Map

    4. Now you have three layers, take the Gradient Map Layer and place it so it is second on your layer list

    Abstract Vectoring - Layer Palette


    Abstract Vectoring - Move layer in Layer Palette

    5. You should have something similar to this

    Abstract Vectoring - Results

    6. Highlight the layer at the top of your layer list and to enhance the color a bit go Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness/Contrast and put Brightness +4, Contrast +16

    Abstract Vectoring - Brightness and Contrast

    7. Make a new layer (this will be the 5th layer) and Edit>Fill>White. Now get some vector brushes and brush on the sides of the sig depending on what you want, in a grey color. Don't overdo the vectoring.

    Abstract Vectoring - Brushes


    Abstract Vectoring - Layer Palette

    8. Next you need to get the color on the actual brushing you did earlier.


    Abstract Vectoring - Layer Transparency

    9. Then with the transparency selected, highlight the "White Layer" and hit the "Backspace" button. Then you make the "Vectors in Grey" layer invisible (click the little eye in the square) or delete it

    Abstract Vectoring - Add Text

    10. Now to add some text. Write your name or whatever on your sig and ok it. Now on that Text layer you must select the layer transparency and highlight thr "White Layer". Then hit "Backspace" and make the layer invisible or delete it

    Abstract Vectoring - Add Stroke

    11. Make a new layer and add a border Select>All and Edit>Stroke>1px Color: Black, Inside


    Abstract Vectoring - Brightness and Contrast


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